| CC-35 Wax Instruction Sheet |  |
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CC-35 is an all natural pillar wax made from soy. It is made from 100% natural products and does not contain petroleum or paraffin. CC-35's soy properties allow for limited shrink, reducing the number of pour steps and top-offs that are usually required. It does this while still creating enough shrink around the perimeter of the mold to allow for a smooth release. It's soy properties allow for a higher max fragrance load in comparison to other pillar waxes at a 8% max load. Most pillar waxes may only hold up to 6%. CC-35 works best with simple solid shapes. Intricate molds with finer details and smaller parts may not be compatible with CC-35, and may be best suited for waxes that have plasticizing properties as they are derived from paraffin.
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Before starting: Be sure to cover your work area to protect from spills. It is much easier to have your molds cleaned and pre-wicked so that they are ready before you begin to melt your wax. We recommend using silicone spray on the inner surface of your mold. These can be purchased from most hardware or home improvement stores. A light spray application will help the wax with cleaner and easier releases from your mold. With smooth molds without many features try spraying silicone on to a clean rag and apply it to the inside of your mold. For more complex shapes you may have to use a bit more silicone as they will have to be sprayed more directly. Most molds are sold pre-tapped, meaning there is a hole in what should be the perfect center of the mold. This is for your wick. We recommend placing the wick through the hole and bonding the outside with a large dollop of high temperature glue. This will keep the wick bonded inside your mold and it should prevent wax from seeping out of your mold. Make sure your glue is dry and properly sealing the tapped hole on your mold. Using cotter pins or wick bars: Center the cotter pin on the top of the mold, pull wick tight and slide wick into the slit. Be cautious not to pull too tightly or wick may release from bottom of the container. Check to ensure the wick is centered and adjust the cotter pin if needed. Now you are ready to begin the candle making process! |
| Step 1: Measure Out The Wax |
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Weigh out the amount of wax required into your melting pitcher
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| Step 2: Melt The Wax |
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You may melt the wax on a gas stove or electric burner on low heat (Be cautious of overheating). The wax will need to be heated to about 190-200°F
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| Step 3: Measure & Add Dye |
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Once the wax is melted, add the desired amount of color and stir the mixture until it is blended thoroughly.
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| Step 4: Measure & Add Fragrance Oil |
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Now that your wax has reached 190-200°F you are ready to add the fragrance oil. It is most common to add .64 ounces (18 grams) to 0.95 ounces (27 grams) of fragrance per pound of wax (Pillar Candles and Free Standing Candles are more susceptible to sweating due to more surface area exposure and the more oil you add may make your wax too soft for your candle to hold its shape over time. More surface area exposed does help for more concentrated fragrance throws.) Fragrance loads over the recommend limits may also increase viscosity which can make it difficult for the wax to release from molds.
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| Step 5: Mix & Pour |
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Stir and mix all of the ingredients thoroughly at 190-200°F. Bring temperature down to 190°F and slowly pour the wax into your molds. *Note: If you pour too quickly, the wax could splash up on the side of the mold or form small air bubbles on the top of the wax. The mold can now be left to completely cool. It is best if you move them as little as possible so the wax does not slosh up the sides of the container. Make sure there are no fans or air vents blowing directly on them since you do not want to accelerate the cooling process. Be careful not to overfill. Your container should never be so full of wax that the wax is touching your cotter pin. Allow at least a minimal amount of space between the wax fill height and the top of the mold. Keep in mind for pillar molds you do control your candles height by the amount of wax you choose to pour into your mold. Your goal is to have the wax flat as possible to allow for the best burn and pool out of your wax.
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| Step 6: Allow To Cool |
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Allow the candle to cool completely before removing your cotter pin.
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| Step 7: Check Your Candle |
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After 2 - 4 hours (depends on the size of the mold, could be longer for very large molds) check your wax in the mold to be sure the visible wax surface is flat. Larger molds may require more than 1 pour. If the surface is lopsided or has a large hole through it you will have to pour again to fill in the holes with new liquid wax or perform a short top-off pour by repeating Steps 1-7. Be sure to not wait too long to perform a second pour or to do a top off pour as shrink from the sides may cause wax to go into the sides of the candle between the cold wax and the mold. This will not make for a very good or clean look. Additionally waiting too long can also cause unwanted visible lines showing where the pours took place. Larger molds may produce voids or air pockets as air was trapped inside the wax or the shrink created separation inside of the candle. Pouring hot does help prevent voids, but with large molds clearing the void may still be necessary. Using an instrument, push holes through the center of the candle as it sits in the mold where it is setting up. Perform this when the wax has hardened, but is still malleable mud. Alternatively, if your wick is bonded well you may pull on this in a circular motion opening up an inverted cone where the air pocket will be. Either method should work great and now that you have opened up these void pockets you may fill them in with fresh wax on second or top-off pour. |
| Step 8: Release Your Candle From The Mold |
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After 18 to 24 hours check your mold for any residual heat. If your candle looks cool and no heat is felt your candle is likely ready to release from its mold. Remove any bonds, glue, or putty from the wick if applicable because you are using tapped molds with a pre-wick setup. Tip the mold over until your candle falls out. Do be careful to keep your mold close and over the table as to not let the candle fall to floor or break. In most cases your candle should release easily as the wax is formulated to shrink enough so that it slides out. If it is stuck you can try carefully applying heat to the outside of the mold (Blow dryer or Heat Gun; heat gun works better.) or by chilling the mold in a refrigerator. Be careful to not chill too soon or too long as the longer you chill the mold the more you risk cracking the wax. |
| Step 9: Trim The Wick |
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Trim the wick to ¼” length using wick trimmers, scissors or nail clippers. *Note: Be cautious as to not to trim them too short because they would not burn properly |
| Step 10: Trim The Wick |
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Add a label for your own branding and presentation if you wish. As with all products to be sold or given to friends and family it is always recommended to apply a caution label. We also do recommend placing the pillar candle on a plate or cover of some kind as prolonged contact of wax to any surface will create stains. |
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Congratulations! You have successfully made your pillar candle!
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CC-35 Candle Maker's Specifications |
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Add Fragrance at 190-200°F |
4-8% Fragrance Load |
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Pour Temp 190°F |
8% Max Fragrance Load |
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1011 E. Route 66 |